My idea of a holiday is where half the fun lies in getting to your destination. And although Barrington Tops is only a 3-hour drive from Sydney, the journey is filled with discovery.
Driving up north, you can make a stop to view some reptiles at the Australian Reptile Park, or feed pelicans at the Entrance, go wine tasting through the Lower Hunter Valley, soak in some history in the many small towns and view the lovely sundial at Singleton.
And then the destination itself—the majestic beech forests, the pristine, shimmering rivers, the challenging walking trails, breathtaking views of the horizon and beyond—Barrington Tops is a fitting climax to the journey.
And the lush seclusion of Craigmhor Retreat we rented for the long weekend is the perfect spot to make most of the grandeur of Barrington Tops. Taking a 25km route off Aberdeen, the house sits on a timbered mountainside overlooking the headwaters of the Rouchel Brook.
In fact of the 25km drive up to the retreat, the 10kms of unpaved road follows the brook, crisscrossing along its path several times. The first time we drove through the stream, we made a big splash. The second time, we stopped to dip our feet. The third time, we soaked ourselves in the cool waters, splashing around like frolicking kids. The brook is irresistible every time.
Along the way are also the most picture perfect horse studs—cascading down the green hillside. Inside, are tall, gentle and friendly horses, which will walk up to you the moment you beckon. Chirping alongside are the varied birds in hues of red, green purple and pink. Quietly crawling away, are the prickly echidnas—surprisingly quick to hide into their burrows if you venture too close.
And if you drive down this road at dusk, the setting sun will be silhouetted by the playful wallaby. We paused for at least half a dozen who hopped across our path, looking at us with as much curiosity, as we looked at them.
Wallabies abound in Craigmhor Retreat’s 1000-hectare ‘backyard’. Take on one of the marked forest walks around the house, and you are sure to spot a few. If you find the comfort of the house too arresting, the all-glass external walls of the house ensure you will spot some wildlife from your room. In fact, Craigmhor manager and owner, Gaye Hoskins like to advertise that even the loos in her house have views!
The three-bedroom guest wing of this house sits atop the valley, with views of the ever-changing landscape, up to Mt. Royal National Park. The rooms are beautifully furnished, the kitchen fully equipped, there is a decent library, and the interiors are intuitively designed. My favourite part of the house was the veranda, sitting atop stilts, giving the sense of being suspended in the eternal beauty of the bushland.
If you can pull yourself away from the many wonders of Craigmhor, pack a picnic and drive up to Moonan Flat. We ate at the delightful Linga Longa Inn in Gundy, situated on the banks of the Pages River, in the midst of the countryside. The food was delicious and the beer chilled. There are several designated picnic areas if you bring your own food and spectacular lookout points to match—especially up from Moonan Flat to Dingo Gate. The views of the expanse of the bush are startling and humbling.
For those seeking a wilderness experience, camping facilities are also available in the Barrington Tops area. The Upper Hunter Country tourism book provides maps and ideas from several self-drive tours. If you can match your holiday with the festivals in the towns, you will also have the opportunity to interact with the lively local community. And of course the food and wine trails can be enticing. There are many ways of exploring the wondrous Barrington Tops and Upper Hunter Valley—chose your own path and reconnect with the Australian bush.
